Are There Hobbits in Michigan?

On Monday (July 28) we had a lovely surprise visit from Looper friends Gerald and Cheri Wallace.  We had last seen them on the Erie Canal at Brewerton, NY. They didn't do the Loop via Canada, but continued west on the Erie Canal into Lake Erie and then into Lake Huron. They were waiting out the windy Monday in the town of Alpena, MI, but had rented a car and made the drive to Mackinaw City. It was great fun to catch up.

Gerald and Cheri Wallace

Mackinac Bridge as seen from Mackinaw City. Too bad
it was too windy to cruise.

The winds started diminishing on Monday evening, and based on the weather information at hand we decided that we could leave Mackinaw City on Tuesday (July 29). I was relieved--the enforced proximity to so many fudge shops was making me antsy. We didn't have perfect conditions for cruising--it was cloudy and still a bit breezy--but the waves were handled easily by the boat, and tolerated by the crew. It wasn't horrible, and the fact that I can write that means that I must be getting more used to some of the rolling motions of the boat. It's just a good thing that neither of us have a propensity for getting seasick.

Leaving Lake Huron and entering Lake Michigan

After 58 miles and 7 hours we were happy to surf into the channel leading to Charlevoix, Michigan. And I really do mean "surf"--the waves coming into the entrance to the channel were pretty impressive.

Charlevoix is a lively, neat, cute tourist town in northern Michigan. One of its claims to fame is several houses built in the early-to-mid 20th century by a local builder and realtor named Earl Young. Variously called "mushroom homes", "gnome houses", and "Hobbitland", the defining features of the houses are the liberal use of stone, curved cedar shake roofs, and unusual chimneys. Some of them really did look as though they could be the residences of Tolkien's Hobbits.

The "Half House"

The house was cool, but the wall was pretty impressive, too

Mushroom house with an amazing garden

Downtown Charlevoix overlooks Round Lake on the east. Within just a few blocks its residential neighborhoods to the west  front Lake Michigan. The local beach had very soft sand.

Charlevoix beach and the lighthouse at the channel entry

A Tuesday night band concert in the park

Our destination today was the village of Leland, about 35 miles south of Charlevoix.  Leland was formerly a commercial fishing town. The "Fishtown" section of the village contains many of the original, century-old wooden shanties that were used for various activities of the fishing trade. Some of the buildings are still used for the limited amount of commercial fishing still being done, but most have been converted into small shops.

Fishtown shanties

The symbol for the local fish shop, of course!

When we started our cruise this morning the sky was grey, and so was the water. It was rather monochromatic and not at all enticing. About an hour away from Leland the skies started clearing. Once that happened, Lake Michigan took on a beautiful blue color. We also started seeing shoreline with relatively high sand dunes, in essence, sand dune cliffs. The total effect was striking.

Van's Beach, looking toward the
 cliffs to the south-
the photos don't do the scene
 justice. Really soft sand!

CARIB II in the Leland Township Marina

Sand dunes at the Lake Michigan shoreline

We have to give the State of Michigan kudos for their wonderful marinas. Every one of the five that we have stayed at so far have been just beautiful. The docks are in great shape, showers and bathrooms are clean, and the staff have provided excellent service.

If only we could be so complimentary about the weather--it's way too cold for July!